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The morning started with a little swing from Stan Kenton. Billie Holliday mellowed the mood with
her highly individual, melodious voice. After lunch the atmosphere became more highbrow, with
Delius, Dvorak and Chopin. Cream cakes were served with afternoon tea. We're not at
Faulkbourne Manor for the day, this is Peter Trent's Thoroughbred Cars, where he's doing a brake
upgrade on our 'E'type. A man of taste and sensibilities, he also races a 'Mk 1' 3.8-litre engined
saloon that many would place in the concours arena.
![]() Classic Spares market 3-pot calipers that can be directly bolted on to early jaguars and that includes Mk 2s along with the 'E' type. There's no point scouring the application list: they're not there. These are special. But that is only because of the bolt spacing; otherwise pistons and pads are all later 'E' type/420. Fitting the slightly thicker 1/2 inch discs in place of the standard 3/8 inch is to be strongly advised. Peter recommended a Series 3 'E' type servo as well and as Classic Spares had one on the shelf, that went in my shopping basket too. The rear brakes would be left to another day, only because I wish to change my 3.54:1 diff. for a 3.07:1 and will fit the larger calipers then. With the car on the four post lift, Peter first disconnected and removed the calipers, keeping the bolts. The rigid brake pipe comes off too. Then the hub/disc assembly is removed and taken to the bench. Five nuts and bolts secure the hub to the disc and it's a simple matter to remove the hub and fit the new disc. Pete, goes to great pains over taking out any burrs, cleaning the new disc of oil and checking the wheel bearings. This is an ideal opportunity to replace the bearings, but as mine were virtually new anyway they stayed in place. The new caliper is offered up to the suspension , upright and held against the brake back-plate. It can be seen that the plate needs trimming to accommodate the larger caliper. The scrap area is marked and the metal cut away, with the sharp edges neatly filed. The hub is now replaced on its stub-axle with the bearings packed with new grease. Now the new caliper is put in position and centralised using shims. This is a real fiddle. You may get it right first time or it could take all afternoon. The new brake pipe (supplied with the calipers) is bent to shape. Peter has a proper bender that makes a neater (and safer) job as it needs to be tucked away from any moving parts. The new, much larger, brake pads are then inserted and if it was to be a straight caliper replacement, then the system would be bled now. We, however, still had the servo to go. Although the Series 3 'E' type servo is much larger, the fitting arrangement and location of pipes is identical to the earlier unit. The battery and inner wheel-arch splash panel have to removed first. Three servo mounting nuts are accessed inside the passenger footwell with an end bracket on the engine sideframe. The various pipe-work is undone and left in situ (with the ends capped off to stop fluid dripping everywhere) and then the servo can be lifted out. Putting in the bigger replacement was a bit like dozy dowing your par'ner yawl! First to the left, then to the right, do a little turn and then straight ahead. Microns separate the servo from the brake light switch and I am told that sometimes it actually touches, requiring a relocation scheme for the brake junction and switch. |
Next was the tiresome business of bleeding the brakes. What joy to have those remote bleed nipples fitted
to the rear. Unavailable for while, they are now in stock at Classic Spares. You're a fool to rebuild an IRS
without them! Pressure bleeding works well on the 'E' type but do be caref.ul if you do this at home as the
ham-fisted could have brake fluid spraying around the garage like a rampant crop duster. What a difference these brakes make. The merest touch (all right, I'm exaggerating, but remember what I've been used to!) of the pedal is enough to put your passenger through the screen. What this conversion has given me is confidence. I use my 'E'type as it should be used and have craved some decent brakes. The original Dunlops may have been fine with the limitations imposed by cross-ply or early radial tyres, but with modern tyre technology it does mean that both braking and handling can be further exploited. So impressed was he that friend, Paul Roach bought himself a set for his Mk 1 that day. There's another set on the shelf waiting to go on my Mk 1 as well. If it sounds like this 'E' type is getting further away from original with its Luminition ignition (extremely pleased with that) and bigger brakes, remember that both improvements can be converted back with minimal work and no damage. Thoroughbred Cars will carry out the caliper conversion for about £120 plus the parts. Remember, though, that once parts are un-bolted, extra little un-looked for things tend to creep in. Like those old soggy brake pipes. Tired wheel bearings. Loose ball-joints. So be prepared for the cost to rise. Peter Trent will also carry out many other modifications right up to building full-race cars as well as the normal work on any XK-engined Jaguar. Classic Spares can supply the conversion in varying stages. Either the whole works (including rears) or just the calipers only. For those interested in a bit of spirited driving on the tracks, they offer racing brake pads as well. Listed below are the parts we used but contact them direct for any extras.
Options: Mintex M1144 road race pads £38 per set (work well even when cold) Rear calipers (XJ) exchange £54 each, rebuilt as new Calipers supplied by Classic Spares Ltd, Unit 4 Brook Road, Britannia Road, Waltham Cross, Herts EN8 7NP. Tel: 01 992 716236. Fax: 01 992 788424. Brake conversion carried out by: Thoroughbred Car Services, 31 Rutherford Close, Eastwood Industrial Estate, Progress Road, Leigh-on-Sea, Essex SS9 5LQ. Tel: 01 702 520797. Fax: 01 702 420844. |
| The full kit as fitted. Series 3 'E-type' servo, 3-pot calipers, 1/2" brake discs, new bigger pads and longer brake pipes. Just the rears to go. |
| The original Dunlop calipers are removed first along with the pipe between and the flexible hose. |
| Thesemarks were made when the new caliper was offered up against the back plate and is the amount of metal to be removed. The brackets securing the back plate to the caliper will need a tweek as well. |
| Here, the hub is being fitted to the new disc. If you do not have soft jaws in your vice, use a pair of old brake pads to grip the disc instead. Always use new Nyloc nuts. |
| A rough idea of how many shims to use can be estimated by seeing how far over to one side the caliper is when first trial fitted. The optimum position is with the disc in the exact centre of the caliper bridge. |
| Finally fitted, the new caliper looks naturally at home. The top bend of the brake pipe is quite acute and although modern brake pipes bend easily, a special tool is to be favoured. |
| First, the horn relay is removed from the splash panel before completely removing the panel. The battery and it's tray follow to give a bit of elbow room around the servo. |
| With the footwell carpet peeled back, the three servo retaining nuts are removed. A bracket secures the nose on to the engine side frame. |
| It's a tight squeeze but a Series 3 'E' type servo will fit. As can be seen, all the pipework falls in place to fit exactly the same positions as the outgoing servo. |
| The difference in size makes all the difference to the braking efficiency of the 'E' type. Pads and repair kits are all standard so replacements will be no problem at all. |
Brake conversion is available from Classic Spares Ltd
This article is © Jaguar World 1996
| © Nick Johannessen / JagWeb 1998 |